Laptop power jack problem really baffeled.

[Spec-Kie]

Hey guys me again. Really got a bitnof a problem here..

So here it goes. The power jack on my laptop has 5 cables running off it 3 black and 2 red. 2 red are joined together and 2 black are the same with one set off with an o ring attached to it. It then has a PCB connector on the end which then plugs into mobo. Then obs the powerjack sits in it place with a metal clip over the top then that clip is screwed down with a black screw and the cable off the pj goes on with it. That clip has snapped right between where the screw does. Now i have changed the powerjack and some times it will charge or in my case power up battery has gone or sometime it wont work any ideas? My laptol is a samsung r519 thanks guys..

 

[Rukbat]

Check the metal tabs that go from the power jack through the motherboard. It sounds as if one or more of them aren't soldered very well. (Not the ones on the band holding the jack down - there should be tabs from the bottom of the jack that go through the board.)

 

[Spec-Kie]

Sorry i forgot to mention the jack is not sdered directly to the board .. its plugged in about 1.5inchs away thanks .. kie

 

[Rukbat]

Make sure it can't rock around when you plug the cord in. Check all 5 soldered connections (all t wires) to make sure that they're clean and shiny.

Other than that you;ll need a schematic, an ohmmeter and a little knowledge of electronics.

 

[Spec-Kie]

Well the clip that hds it down is snapped so the jack does wobble. Will that make a difference? I could desolder the points join the wires and then re solder them? So i then no they are a nice join?

 

[Davdi]

Re-soldering sounds like a good idea, but be sure to have something to act as a heat-sink to prevent any components in the laptop from being damaged (Pliers strategically placed van work well).

 

[Rukbat]

Make sure the solder flows - like water. A cold solder joint is worse than no solder at all. A 37 watt soldering pencil is about all you should use - anything hotter could cause damage to the board.

As far as the clip, replace it. If they charge you $3 with shipping you're being ripped off, but if the jack breaks free you could be in for a new motherboard.

(This is such a common problem - loose charging jacks - that there are companies that do nothing but replace laptop charging jacks, and make loads of money. 25 cents more for each laptop would prevent the problem at minimal cost to the end user.)

 

[Spec-Kie]

Im going to have to get some pictures up and then it will be easier to diagnose wont it lol. Im havin nightmare with it. Ill get some pictures on this evening

 

[Spec-Kie]

The part with shiping for the clip is 4.50gbr so might have to invest .. thank you.
K

 

[Rukbat]

That's the part that always gets me. For the price of one cigarette (what they used to cost when I quit almost 20 years ago), they could design the port so it wouldn't loosten without a pry bar and a large hammer. So they save the price of a single LED and give you a part that wears out so fast that the warranty is still expiring as it goes.

 

[Spec-Kie]

i was just having a little re read over this thread to see if there was something i was missing. I notice that some people have said to make sure the solder flows or its not going to work. Thing is the DCjack is not soldered to the board its is a serperate part from the board. its on a cable. and that cable is soldered to the jack and then the cable it plugged in.

 

[Spec-Kie]

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This is my problem ..

 

[Dngrsone]

Dude, drop your laptop much?

You should be able to get replacement parts for the hinge and such on eBay.

The wires look intact, but that doesn't really mean anything. That third black wire, is it a ring-terminal, supposed to go under the screw holding the metal clip?

Anyway, if you removed the the heatshrink at the back of the connector, then you would see the solder connections everyone is talking about.

You might be better served replacing the jack entirely, if you aren't familiar with a soldering iron (or lack one). Tug lightly on the wires and see if one comes loose. It is entirely possible that your charging wire is bad-- they fail so damn frequently, it isn't even funny.

 

[Spec-Kie]

Yeah its a pretty old one i have had it a few years now. I no all the bezels are snapped thays all recent stuff that its a wreck.. well i have taken the wire off taken all the old solder off and resoldered them back on no luck. And yeah the ring is screwed down to the case on the clip .. its only recently starting to do it.. i have tryed it with a brand new jack and still same problem also tryed it with different cables .. still have same problem. The bafflling thing is sometimes it gets a connection and works.. and then some times it doesnt..

 

[lunatic59]

That third black wire, is it a ring-terminal, supposed to go under the screw holding the metal clip?

That's what I was thinking. The broken bracket caused an intermittent ground.

 

[Spec-Kie]

Yeah it spose to thats what i was asking will that be the issue??

 

[Dngrsone]

Hrm...

Normally, I'd say no-- it isn't like this is an all-metal case that would provide a ground-plane for certain components-- but sometimes engineers do weird things.

Since you replaced the jack... did you say you tried a new brick? If so, then the next logical step would be to replace the battery.

If that doesn't do the trick, then most likely you ave a bad mainboard, but that is low on the possibilities list.

 

[Spec-Kie]

Well the battery i have been having trouble with it for few weeks now sayin that i should replace it bit even when i take it out and try the it without the bat i still get nothing? So i dont think its the batteey. Yeah i have tryed a new brick also. But then agian ot wasnt a genuine part was a replica part.. so could be that.

 

[Dngrsone]

Some laptops will not work without the battery in...

 

[Rukbat]

You ARE replacing the screw that goes through that ring terminal and into that threaded post, right? And tightening it down, with at least a little pressure on the screwdriver?

As Dngrsone said, you could cut off the shrink tubing to make sure that the wires are well-soldered (that's why I prefer buying individual components, not pre-wired assemblies), but a good low resistance continuity tester would test end-to-end a lot easier and leave the insulation intact. But that's what we were talking about - is the solder well-flowed around those terminals under the tubing (which you can't see).

 

[Spec-Kie]

Yeh i put the screw back in i have replaced it and tryed a different screw and i have no luck. I have got a new jack but also checked the joints they seem fin. Lost hs xx