Car Charger I found

[Flapjacks]

Can I use this car charger I found for a Motorolla Razr for my Droid Eris with stock battery, the only info I can find on it is that it says Input: 11-30Vdc.

Technocel Platinum MV3CPCP.

Thanks, Don't want to fry my battery.

 

[GoodbyBberry]

they are universal that is why companies are going to mini and micro usb you should be good to go.

 

[Flapjacks]

Can anyone confirm this?

 

[mikem3223]

Can anyone confirm this?

I have used the actual Moto Razr charger with my Droid Eris and it works fine. Anything mini-USB should work on the Droid Eris. I have used a number of different mini-USB chargers and USB cables to charge or transfer data, so you should be good to go.

 

[grvthang]

I have a bunch of mini-usb chargers at work, at home, and in the car (I've owned Razrs and Blackberries), and I haven't seen one yet that doesn't work on the Eris.

 

[gruss]

You are fine, I use MOTO and BB chargers all the time. In fact in the car I use a cig lighter adapter to usb 2 port thingy that was 5 bucks at meijers and keep a variety of cables around so I can charge my BB and Eris at the same time. just need 5 volts and your good. if its wrong the phone will tell ya.

 

[AudiDan]

Use so many different chargers I cannot tell you where they all came from. Yes they work and my phone is happy.

 

[Crondar]

Ha, I'm using a charger for my GPS unit on my Eris and it works fine too, hehe.

 

[TheSultan]

just plug it in and see? if the voltage is wrong, it just won't charge very well. It IS possible to ruin it...but so many of the chargers are so close to the same voltage it's highly improbable that it will do any damage...it just won't work very well.

 

[Peter123]

Just plug it in, if smoke comes out it means you got the wrong charger...


.
.
.





(just kidding. I got the one with rectractable connection. very convenient.)

 

[smacky]

Yeah, a lot of things use miniUSB these days. My USB wireless receiver for my desktop disconnects so I can use that. I think I also use the cable from my MD player from about eight years ago. That works.

You should be fine.

 

[EddieVersatile]

As long as the charger is mini USB it will work.. Even if it puts out more or less voltage than your OEM charger, it will just charge at different rates.. The only way a miniUSB charger would NOT work is if (for some reason) the USB connector itself had been re-pinned by the manufacture, and the pins that transfer the voltage did not match up with the charge port on your phone..

Keep in mind, chargers with more or less voltage/amperage than the OEM charger for you phone, can degrade the life of the battery, and while it may take a TON of charges to ever even notice any loss in life, It still does affect it

Amperage is the dangerous part, you can touch something thats 10,000 volts but only 1 ampere and probably just feel a tingle, but if you touched something thats only, say, 12 volts (like a car) but like 100 amps, you will get SHOCKED.
With this in mind, you will want to try to keep your amperes the same as the OEM charger (stated in milliamps usually), but the voltage can vary slightly (but still try to stay close if you can)

Moral of this whole post being, YES, it will work..

Electricity is actually pretty simple, once you learn the basics.. Learning it has helped me get out of a few situations lol.. One time a couple of years back I was lost on the road in the middle of the night with a dead Phone battery and no car charger, but I had a mini USB cable in my arm rest and a garage door opener with a 9V battery in it lol.. I cut the USB cable, and taped the + and - wires to the terminals on the battery..(granted I had played with USB wiring in the past) But it got my phone turned on and charged long enough for me to call a friend and get me the hell home! lol

 

[Peter123]

......
Amperage is the dangerous part, you can touch something thats 10,000 volts but only 1 ampere and probably just feel a tingle, but if you touched something thats only, say, 12 volts (like a car) but like 100 amps, you will get SHOCKED.
With this in mind, you will want to try to keep your amperes the same as the OEM charger (stated in milliamps usually), but the voltage can vary slightly (but still try to stay close if you can)

Moral of this whole post being, YES, it will work..

Dude, at 10,000V if 1 Amp passes through you, you are smoke!!
Super dead!
At that point you absorb 10 kWatts and that's a lot of power.

At 12 Volts in order to pass 100A through your body you have to be really wet and it will also kill ya.

Yes, the amperage and duration are the two main factors besides the total absored power, that creates the effect -that is the total electical charge the body has to absorb. The other factor is the path the eletricity passes through the body.
Peter

 

[fussundgeist]

not bothering to read all the other replies, just my 2 cents.

I use one of motorola's standardized microUSB chargers at work, we have shared chargers.
The only thing with it is that the current is a little lower so it takes a little longer to charge. as long as your voltage and amps isn't higher, your fine, otherwise may burn out a component.

 

[EddieVersatile]

Dude, at 10,000V if 1 Amp passes through you, you are smoke!!
Super dead!
At that point you absorb 10 kWatts and that's a lot of power.

At 12 Volts in order to pass 100A through your body you have to be really wet and it will also kill ya.

Yes, the amperage and duration are the two main factors besides the total absored power, that creates the effect -that is the total electical charge the body has to absorb. The other factor is the path the eletricity passes through the body.
Peter

ahh, variables.. I guess I did leave a lot of factors out...and I may have over-exaggerated with 10k volts lol.. but at the end of the day, you should still be able to charge your Eris with any USB car charger I've noticed most car chargers operate at less than 9V, even if the charger actually allowed 14.4V to pass through it (max cig lighter voltage in most vehicles), The eris should still charge ok, It might just get a little warm to the touch lol..

 

[Blrfl]

Amperage is the dangerous part, you can touch something thats 10,000 volts but only 1 ampere and probably just feel a tingle, but if you touched something thats only, say, 12 volts (like a car) but like 100 amps, you will get SHOCKED.

Just in case anyone should be tempted to use this information in real life:

Current flow is a function of supply voltage and load resistance, the fact that a supply can provide 100 A doesn't mean it will. The resistance between two dry points on a healthy human body varies from a few thousand ohms to 5-7 million depending on a very large number of factors. But for safety's sake, you should assume a lower value. Let's use 25,000.

The USB spec says the DC supply is 5V at up to 500 mA. Into a 25 KΩ (thousands of ohms) load, that's 0.2 mA, which is well below what you'd be able to feel.

12V into 25 KΩ will result in current of 0.00048 A (amperes) or 0.48 mA (milliamperes, or thousandths of an ampere). You're not going to feel that, either.

120V from your wall outlet will be about 5 mA. That's not only going to hurt, you'll have muscle contractions. Or at least that would be the case if it were DC, but it's AC, and the composition of your body results in a much lower effective resistance under those conditions. (Why is a long story.) Take a worst-case of 3 KΩ and you're into about 40 mA, which is well into the range of violent muscle contractions and on the edge of the 50-100 mA range where your heart starts fibrillating. (That, for what it's worth, is the cause of death in most electrocutions.) If your skin is wet, the resistance can be as low as a few hundred ohms, which means even more current flow.

220 V from the wall outlets in most countries (again AC, so we'll use 3 K&#937 is 73 mA, which is fibrillate-and-die territory (50-100 mA).

Coming into contact with a 10,000 V AC supply will get you a nice 3-amp jolt, which is enough to kill you 30 times over. Even if that supply were only capable of delivering 1 A, that's still enough to do you in.

--Mark

 

[Scynthetic78]

Take a worst-case of 3 KΩ and you're into about 40 mA, which is well into the range of violent muscle contractions and on the edge of the 50-100 mA range where your heart starts fibrillating. (That, for what it's worth, is the cause of death in most electrocutions.) If your skin is wet, the resistance can be as low as a few hundred ohms, which means even more current flow.

220 V from the wall outlets in most countries (again AC, so we'll use 3 K&#937 is 73 mA, which is fibrillate-and-die territory (50-100 mA).

Isn't fibrillating also connected to the Hz of AC power?

 

[OfTheDamned]

I would just like to say that I consider myself to be a relatively smart girl, but this thread made my head hurt.

 

[adammsu]

you want to aim for 5v and 1 amp.... I also have a gps charger that is 5v but 2 amp, but i dont use that cuz of the double amperage. Less than 1A is ok, but more, i personally avoid. Might be ok... but I figure too much amps is bad.

(FYI - your computer will do 5v and about 0.5A)

 

[hlaalu]

I found a car charger on ebay for $5, came with 3 really nice screen protectors lol

 

[Peter123]

you want to aim for 5v and 1 amp.... I also have a gps charger that is 5v but 2 amp, but i dont use that cuz of the double amperage. Less than 1A is ok, but more, i personally avoid. Might be ok... but I figure too much amps is bad.

(FYI - your computer will do 5v and about 0.5A)

You can use the 2A charger. The rating means that the charger is *capable* providing upto 2 Ampers. You can use a charger rated to 100A if you wish. It is the device that you charging that determines how much current it requires while charging.
Peter

 

[Rubik76]

I'm resolving to use the word "fibrilating" more often.

 

[Peter123]

Isn't fibrillating also connected to the Hz of AC power?

Fibrilation is the rapid uncontrolled contracion of the heart.
De-fibrilation is when they give you jolts of electric charge to restart the hearts normal rithm. The guys yell "Clear" prior to de-fibliration of the patient, so no one touches him/her, otherwise he is also going to get zapped.
Peter

 

[Scynthetic78]

Fibrilation is the rapid uncontrolled contracion of the heart.
De-fibrilation is when they give you jolts of electric charge to restart the hearts normal rithm. The guys yell "Clear" prior to de-fibliration of the patient, so no one touches him/her, otherwise he is also going to get zapped.
Peter

I know what fibrillation is. What I'm getting at is that I seem to remember a class or workshop I was in mentioning something about the frequency at which our (US) power alternates at, having something to do with full cardiac arrest. I don't remember the specifics of it, but somehow, 60hz was linked with 60 bpm being the average human pulse rate.

 

[Peter123]

I know what fibrillation is. What I'm getting at is that I seem to remember a class or workshop I was in mentioning something about the frequency at which our (US) power alternates at, having something to do with full cardiac arrest. I don't remember the specifics of it, but somehow, 60hz was linked with 60 bpm being the average human pulse rate.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

50Hz vs. 60Hz has got nothing to do with heart beat frequency.
There is almost no differenece form technical point of view, both 50 and 60 Hz are higher that the eye percieves as flickering when it comes to light sources.
I think, US's choice of 60Hz vs. 50Hz is due to the fact the with 60Hz it is much easier to construct electric clocks. These old clock are using the 60Hz to make them tick. (Todays clock are mostly use crystals to make their own AC.)
I think also 60Hz has a slight advantage as being more efficient when converting to high voltage for transmission lines.
Peter