I can't get it working on mine, and thats with every permutation of "auto-fit webpages" enabled, every user agent string, and every about:debug setting. Others are reporting success at a large thread on XDA-developers, but they're not doing anything different particularly. Try reading up over there and see if it'll work for you...
Sounds like perhaps while exploring all the various settings on your phone you may have changed the browser default.
Double tap, and zoom are the default settings that cause reflow to bring the text in properly side to side so as to prevent you from having to scroll just like you are looking to accomplish.
Mine works fine with not only the stock browser but a couple others as well.
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