There are a few different ways to use the toggles now. If you go directly into settings, they will be at the top. If you'd like to do it straight from the home screen, I suggest you use the power controls widget that comes on the phone. It takes up a whole row, but it's right there for easy access.
As for the word suggestions, they only seem to come up in mine if I press in the "Compose Message" area before or while typing. Hope this helps.
EDIT: As for text size, if you go into Settings > Display > Font Size, you should be able to change it there. There is also an option in Settings > Accessibility > Large Text