Help hisense sero 7 pro wont charge!

[thakiddchuck]

Hi I have a new sero 7 pro that all of a sudden wont charge or cut on at all! Without the charger plugged in it doesn't do anything no matter how long u hold dwn the power button. With it plugged in holding down the power button will just make the red dead battery icon cum on then back off, if u continue holding it itll do tht 3 times then after it goes off the 3rd time nothing will happen no longer how lng u hold it until u release the power button nd hold it dwn again, which will just make it repeat the on and off process again. it does this exact same thing when u hold dwn power and either volume - or volume +, which I read is suppose to send it to restore mode. can I get any other ideas from someone experienced with tablets or computers? I am in school for programming so I know my way around computers and will be able to easily(I learn fast) perform whats needed. I lost receipt so I cant send in...PLEASE HELP...I have schoolwork on it I need...thank you for taking the time to read this

p.s the charging port is a LIL loose, u have to hold it up a lil while holding power button to get the red dead battery sign to come up

 

[Rukbat]

1) Having to hold the charging port means that one or more pins became unsoldered from the board. Every time you make and lose a connection, you're making a little spark. Eventually that'll eat away at the board enough that the repair will cost a lot more, so the sooner you get it fixed, the cheaper it will be.

2) The battery is probably almost completely dead. You have to charge it, with the tab off, for 24 hours. But get the port fixed first.

 

[pa_cap]

1) Having to hold the charging port means that one or more pins became unsoldered from the board. Every time you make and lose a connection, you're making a little spark. Eventually that'll eat away at the board enough that the repair will cost a lot more, so the sonner you get it fixed, the cheaper it will be.

2) The battery is probably almost completely dead. You have to charge it, with the tab off, for 24 hours. But get the port fixed first.

p.s the charging port is a LIL loose, u have to hold it up a lil while holding power button to get the red dead battery sign to come up

Rukbat's advice is likely best but you might try switching the microUSB cable that the charger uses. This worked for me with flaky port but mine wasn't loose.

 

[thakiddchuck]

1) Having to hold the charging port means that one or more pins became unsoldered from the board. Every time you make and lose a connection, you're making a little spark. Eventually that'll eat away at the board enough that the repair will cost a lot more, so the sonner you get it fixed, the cheaper it will be.

2) The battery is probably almost completely dead. You have to charge it, with the tab off, for 24 hours. But get the port fixed first.

is there anyway I can fix it myself? I don't have my receipt so im not worried about voiding the warranty..

 

[thakiddchuck]

1) Having to hold the charging port means that one or more pins became unsoldered from the board. Every time you make and lose a connection, you're making a little spark. Eventually that'll eat away at the board enough that the repair will cost a lot more, so the sonner you get it fixed, the cheaper it will be.

2) The battery is probably almost completely dead. You have to charge it, with the tab off, for 24 hours. But get the port fixed first.

your advice about letting it sit worked and I got it to turn on and its working perfect except you still have to position the cord a certain way for it to charge so I would still like to know how you go about fixing the port yourself....thanks

 

[pa_cap]

your advice about letting it sit worked and I got it to turn on and its working perfect except you still have to position the cord a certain way for it to charge so I would still like to know how you go about fixing the port yourself....thanks

Mine did that regarding positioning cord. As I said, if you replace the cable with a spare (can get for <$5) or from another device, that sometimes works and is the cheapest, simplest solution.

Youtube has videos on replacing the microUSB connectors for things like a Nook Simple Touch so you might check that or others. You'll need a source for a new connector. The connector on the Nook is attached to the main circuit board and requires some carefull unsoldering/soldering with a hot gun and shield. I assume it is similar on the S7P-check Xboxexpert posts/pix/vids on XDA or youtube as he has dissasembled it to do some stuff.

 

[Rukbat]

It requires a small (15 Watts or less) soldering iron with a 1/16" tip or smaller if it's on a fiberglass (usually green or blue) board. You don't need a new connector unless one of the pins broke off. What usually happens is that the solder on on of the pins wasn't applied right (I'm not going into a 50 page wave soldering instruction manual here), so the connection is a pin in a tiny hole in a ball of solder. Move it and it makes connection. So all you have to do is touch up each pin (5 of them, except in Samsung's 11 pin connectors). The one without the solder may need a touch of solder (and I mean a touch - like the amount of cyanide you'd feel safe putting on your tongue) to resolder it to the board. Once you see how it's fastened you'll see why microUSB is such a bad connector for one that gets plugged into every day. It's nice that all manufacturers (except Apple, of course) agreed on a single connector - they just agreed on a pretty flimsy one.

If the connector is on a flex board (transparent), the board melts at a lower temperature than solder, so you'll probably end up melting the board before you resolder the connector. (Again, wave soldering prevents that - but you're not buying a machine that costs 6 figures or more to fix one phone.) In that case, the board the connector is on usually plugs into the main board, and your best bet is to buy a whole "connector on a board" on eBay and replace it by unplugging the bad one and plugging in the new one. They're cheap - depending on the phone they can go for a little under $10 (less than a soldering iron and tip.)

 

[syzmic]

Well, yeah, but this device isn't a phone.

Another suggestion, assuming that you actually know how to solder, is to install a wireless charging option. Info on that mod is in many places, just Google it. The parts will cost about $14 or less. Look for the Pixi charging dock and phone back for all the parts.

 

[charleswebber]

Mine does the same thing, in order to get it to charge you've got to place something such as a lighter or a pack of crayons under just the charger so it's being pushed forward, and maybe tilt the charger to one side, that's all I've got until I figure the rest out

 

[pa_cap]

Mine does the same thing, in order to get it to charge you've got to place something such as a lighter or a pack of crayons under just the charger so it's being pushed forward, and maybe tilt the charger to one side, that's all I've got until I figure the rest out

Be prepared to repair/replace. Mine finally died and I picked up a replacement thru Amazon 3rd party 'Electronics101'. It was $109-$30credits I had for a new one. But they sent me a refurb (shipping error they say!) However, I complained and got it for $23 net plus they upgraded warranty to 1 year!