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do i have to glue the lcd to the digitizer?

I use evo-stik serious glue. However, I still get issues with light bleed. I've been experimenting with different ways to clamp down the screen but haven't yet found a fool-proof one (and on my most recent one, I cracked the glass at the bottom--tight seal though! haha). I think the issue is that many of these after-market screens are very slightly thicker than the originals. If they were the same size, I imagine that even the typical cell phone screen repair tape would work just fine, but since there is an upwards force being exerted on the glass, it doesn't quite hold.
 
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Crease? Or crack? Or scratch? The lcd's don't ny have any parts besides the cables themselves that can crease so if you're seeing something like that generally speaking the lcd is either cracked or scratched. A cracked lcd will have issues like dark blobs and lines through the display. Scratches are cosmetic. The digitizer is attached to the glass, not the lcd so you can have a destroyed lcd but a perfectly functional glass/digitizer assembly. The lcd's functionality won't affect the digitizer. If it's simply a scratch, reassembling the phone as it is shouldn't have any issues except those stated in my previous post.

In this state you are able to turn the phone on to test the lcd. Just be sure you have plastic pry tools to be able to disconnect the battery again.

Really though, the lcd assemblies have come down a lot in cost so I wouldn't even bother trying glass only at this point.

Good luck!
 
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hi guys, i have been repairing phones for a while and my biggest pet peeve has been LCD assembly Lifting from mid frame , causing not only light bleed but just a loose looking finish. so every time I do a repair, I tried to find a method to remedy this. And I think I'm getting very close, if not figured out. what I do is, I line the mid frame with a very thin tacky double sided tape adhesive, after ensuring that is clean of all the old glue and Wiped down with alcohol. in some applications I double up the double side tape because the tape i use is so thin. Then I heat the double side tape with heat gun before removing the backing and squeeze it down hard with a penny or an object similar to get it to adhere to the frame. Then I peelthe backing off and I install the new LCD assembly (cleaned with alcohol ) squeezing it firmly on to the double side tape. once its in place, i use a heat gun again to heat up all around the device, then I press firmly all the way around except this time I apply strips of scotch tape. I stick it to the screen and yank it tightly around the back to hold the entire assembly tight to the frame. I do this all the way around the entire device, and then I let the device setup for 2 to 3 days with the tape sticking to the device. During this time, I rotate the device in and out of the refrigerator for periods of an hour or long as possible , my theory behind this, is that the constant temperature changes, while still held down tightly with scotch tape, will help cure the double side tape. After about 3 days I remove the Scotch tape. at this point my repair should be finished, and with a good hold. however there is times where I may see a small section with light bleed, what I do is I apply the same double side tape, but this time I apply it to the outside. Then I use my fingernail To work it down in between the digitizer and the frame and then repeat the heat and tape method. Give it a shot, and let us know
 
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another method I have tried Is, using an all purpose adhesive spray in an aerosol can . I spray the Bare frame (where the Double side tape will be) before lining the frame with double side tape it helps to promote the tape sticking to the frame. then after I stick the double side and remove the backing, I will spray another light coat on top of it
 
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I use an automotive emblem & trim adhesive. Takes about an hour to cure but when you use it properly and then clamp the edges, allow to cure, problem solved.

I don't think the issue is with the AM screen assemblies being thicker. I think it's a case of the way the entire phone is designed. I only ever see the screens lift from the bottom edge of the phone. Being that that's where the LCD flex cables run, I have to assume that they are gently pushing upward on the screen causing it to lift. Light bleed from the sides I believe is related though it seems that some frames are actually slightly warped (these are the phones that are left in the pockets of someone wearing skinny jeans).

Anyway, the adhesive can be picked up from any auto parts store or big box store, usually around $10 for a tube of it. Lasts awhile, very strong stuff, just need to give it time to cure. It states it needs an hour, give it more than that. Since I started using this adhesive I haven't had any more lifting LCD's.
 
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